Reciprocating Saw (1002866) In Stock Now

About:

A Reciprocating Saw is a handheld saw commonly used for demolition and remodeling. You can use it to cut through many types of materials such as wood, metal, PVC and nails. Get ready to tear the house down!

This Unit:

Variable speed (0 - 2,300 SPM) for precise cutting in a wide variety of materials

Powerful 6 AMP motor for continous operation

All ball and needle bearings for long tool life

Accepts standard 1/2 inch shank blades

Operation:

Preparing to Use a Reciprocating Saw

1. Disconnect the cell if using a cordless reciprocating saw, or unplug from the mains for a corded unit.

2. Select a blade designed for your target medium — retailers have suitable cutting edges for wood, metal, nails, ceramic, and wet timber. Ideally, it should be two to three inches longer than the depth of your base material.

3. With reference to the manufacturer’s instruction guide for your particular reciprocal saw, install the blade. Usually, this involves pressing down on the chuck, which releases the internal clamps.

4. Slide the blade into the chuck while wearing protective gloves — the teeth of the blade should face downwards. When in place, release the chuck which enables the clamps to grasp the cutter.

5. Carefully pull on the blade to ensure that it is secure.

6. Adjust the shoe — the protective cage that surrounds the blade. Again, check your instruction manual for the correct method, as this varies from model to model. You’re positioning the shoe to select the correct cutting depth for your project.

Preparing Your Work Area

1. Using a straight-edge or curved-edge and a carpenter’s pencil — mark the area you wish to address with your reciprocal saw.

2. If your target is relatively small and portable, secure it in a clamp, vice, or workbench.

3. Put on your protective clothing.

Cutting With a Reciprocal Saw

1. Reattach the cordless battery pack or plug into a mains outlet.

2. Grasp the saw firmly with both hands — using your dominant hand to grip the handle, and your other hand to support the machine behind the blade guard. This elevates stability and shields against hazardous use.

3. Position the shoe against your target medium with the cutting edge of the blade slightly above the starting end of your pencil line — not touching it. Utilize a significant amount of pressure on the shoe to secure your saw and inhibit the risk of kickback.

4. When you’re comfortable and ready to cut — gently squeeze the trigger throttle until it reaches the desired speed. If your machine has a variable rapidity dial — ensure it’s set at the correct velocity to suit your medium.

5. Address the end of your pencil line to begin penetration of the target material. Keep pushing or forcing to a minimum — allow the saw itself to do the majority of the work. At all times, keep the shoe pressed against your medium, and ensure that the blade isn’t bent.

6. If you’re making a plunge cut — that is, in the middle of a piece of material and not the edge — begin the penetration at 45 degrees and repeat with gentle strokes. When the cut is sufficiently deep to accommodate 0.375-inches of the blade — hold the saw in one position and allow it to penetrate through your medium.

7. Once the cut is complete — release the trigger and allow the blade to cease movement before withdrawing the tool. This eliminates the risk of hazardous kickback.

8. Remove the battery cell or unplug from the mains to prevent accidental operation.

9. Carefully remove the blade and store to shield against damage, blunting, or breakage while not in use.

10. Clean your work area, stand back, crack open your beer, and admire your handiwork.

Safety:

• Anticipate problems when cutting into walls and floors where electrical wires, heating vents and plumbing pipes may be present. Be especially careful with finished walls and floors—don’t cut through wires or pipes.

• Unplug the saw when changing blades and accessories.

• Always wear your safety glasses. Hearing protection is recommended when cutting metal.

• Reciprocating saws are prone to “kickback.” If the blade pulls out of a cut and the blade tip bangs into your material, it’ll cause the saw to buck violently. This can happen suddenly and pitch you off balance. Remember this when working on ladders.

• When cutting through pipes or wood, the blade can bind and cause the saw to buck. It’s like hand-sawing through a board that’s not supported under the cut—the saw stops cold. With a reciprocating saw, the blade may be stopped, but the tool (and you) keeps jerking back and forth.

• Blades generate plenty of heat. Just after making a cut, you can get a nasty burn grabbing the blade to change it, so give it a sec!

Loan Notes: